Anston, BBC, ISPO and Magic

Well it really has been ages since I last blogged. So here is a whistle stop tour of all that has happened in between route setting and coaching.

Towards the end of June I began to explore Anston stones. This was great fun as for me it was somewhere totally new and is was crimpy limestone, a style I had not really climbed on for years. Initially it was pretty intense put after a few sessions my fingers were getting back into the crimping game. My trips here culminated in climbing the cool Black Crow 7c+ and on my last visit there I flashed Quarantine, given 8a but on what grading scale I dont know. Grades here are pretty varied, in the 7a/+ region they seem soft and in the 7c region seem hard, but that is just grades I suppose like everywhere else. Quality venue though and good effort to Mick Adams and Lee Robinson for producing the guide. I am looking forward to the colder temps for the harder boulders here.

July began with more work but now I was managing to squeeze in some rest days and some sessions at The Works getting spanked by Ned, Chris Webb and Alex. I wasnt training for the BBC but I was aiming to up my game a little. Sadly Cliffhanger was rained off but the BBC went ahead. I managed to scrape into the final in 8th place and with only one way to go I finished in 5th. To be honest I was totally made up wih this and am sure with some effort I will be back on the podium next year. Awesome to see Barrans take this year and the Shauna v's Alex battle was fantastic.

After a week setting for the Reach and the amazing new Beacon Climbing Wall, I did my first mega drive of the last few weeks out to Freidrichshafen to catch up with my sponsors, DMM, Boreal and Sterling. I was also there with two other hats on, firstly I was a stand in Dave Simmonite (climb magazine editor) though not as wide, and had to call on a few brands for him. Secondly I was there to talk Blocfest. Blocfest is a new series of comps with a festival feeling to be held in the South kicking off in October they will run over the winter to Febuary. Check out for more info.

Next up was Magic Wood, a quick hit trip and althought completely destroyed from a hard week and loads of driving I managed a couple of 7c+'s. From Darkness to Sunshine was great and the new (dont know the name) 7c+ on the Bruno Bloc was mega.

With only 4 days in the Wood it was time to leave......more driving to the Costa Blanca. Time to bring Joe and Oliana (and her unborn foal) back to the UK.

A quick stop in the Ariege allowed me to tick the super hard Reine De Sabart and a hot day on the blocs in font landed me back in the UK for a 10 day coaching and setting stint!!

Today is my rest and packing day. Tonight I am off to Stuttgart to climb at the Adidas Rockstars event. After that it is off to the Alps!


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